islay

What a marvellous short holiday. Great weather, a fascinating island and wonderful wildlife.

We set off at a ridiculous hour on the Sunday morning in order to catch the early ferry from Kennagraig to Port Ellen ferry.  Clear roads and good weather made for an easy drive and we arrived at the ferry terminal in good time, indeed good enough time to stroll around and enjoy watching oyster catches and black guillemots.

The ferry crossing proved easy and on arrival at Islay we elected bomb up to Port Askaig and see the views over to Jura. But before we did we called in at Findglas.

 

Bluebell Woods

The last week in May is usually a great time to see the bluebells around Perthshire.  This year that rule of thumb has held, despite the long hard spring that has held back so many things.

Meall Garbh and An Stuc

Thursday, May 30, 2013.

In the years since I was last walking around Ben Lawers many changes have taken place. The rather hexagonal looking visitor centre has gone and the car park has migrated to the other side of the road. The forest on the road up towards Ben Lawers from Loch Tay is felled.

    We parked at the last bend on the road before it snakes up towards the new car park. Then striding across rough fields we made for a track that runs under Leacann Ghlasa. By picking this route we were avoiding parking near Tombreck farm and instead taking the older route that counters under the hills. A meadow pipit nest on the way to the main track was a highlight of the early part of the work in fairly dull weather.
   Beyond the shadows of Creag Dubh we can to the Allt an Tium Bhreic and a concreted dam and huge array of pipes funnelling water into this hydro scheme. A sharp pull up the side of a concrete cover carried us to a Land Rover and helicopter service bay. Now were on the track proper and a number of intakes counted us down as we headed ever nearer to the base of Meall Garbh, pockets of  primroses by the side of the track were good evidence of the very late spring we have had this season. All around skylarks and meadow pipits were calling but there was little else in the way of bird life.

   Lunch was by the side of a small pool at a Dam and then it was on upwards through pleasant heather to a small  section of woodland regeneration and ultimately to the saddle at Lairig Innein. An old fence post line greeted us and a path that easily wound its way to the summit of Meall Garbh. The sun was beginning to make an effort to break through and we were glad of it as tackled An Stuc.

 

   The descent off Meall Garbh is straightforward and we enjoyed seeing great clumps of purple saxifrage (above) but the climb up onto An Stuc was a bit more exposed than I had expected. Some steep drops off the path were interesting and I don't think I would have been happy tackling this route on an icy winter's day. Nevertheless, we scrambled to the summit without mishap.  An Stuc doesn't appear in my old black Munro book, but I'm assured it is now recognised as a Munro, elevated to the list some years ago in fact ... which only goes to prove that I'm not a serious Munro bagger.

  
We didn't rush off An Stuc, but instead (as the sun was now out) lingered taking photographs, eating the last of our sandwiches and having the obligatory wee dram. Then we picked our route back which was via the 'back door' that runs on the northern flanks of Ben Lawers and avoids having to do the peaks of Ben Lawers and Stob Glas. We made for the bealach at Coire Odhar and the existence of a well defined track suggests this is a popular option for many walkers. Avoiding some tricky snow gulleys (where late snow was just beginning to collapse into burns and fissures beneath) we picked a pleasant route back and met a fascinating old man, resplendent in shirt and tie, who had known some of the leading lights of the SMC (Scottish Mountaineering Club) in the post war years.
    Soon were at the head of the well established nature trail underneath Ben Lawers and in quite hot and sunny conditions we meandered through the 'reserve' and back down the road to the car.
    A good solid walk of 8 hours with Mr. McG !

 
 

Gleouraich & Spidean Mialach

Over the Great Glen and on to Loch Quoich and distant hills. This was a good day out all be it a bit harder than I had anticipated. The first hill wasn't too bad but the second seemed to tantalisingly always a bit farther than expected. Still early in the year and the fitness will come with more outings.

 

The drive from Perth took a couple of hours but the views as we neared the foot of the hill were lovely.  Even in this quiet corner there were neat houses tucked into the forests and loch shore. Parking beyond the dam at a the sight of a little river hydro scheme we found a good stalkers path to take us to a flatting sub summit before we headed past a shelter of sorts and on to the first summit.

 

 

 

Things got interesting going for the second summit, for despite being apparently near it was nowhere near as near as we would have liked to think, and as one Munro book notes there is a 'considerable' drop between the two peaks. But one good thing about the distance was that we headed out of a rather gloomy patch of weather and into brighter sunshine.  The descent between the two summits was interesting with snow in the northern corries and a loud ring ouzel warning us not to come too near.

 

 

The path to the top of our second summit petered out a bit amongst big slabby rocks that were tricky to walk over. However, this is good ridge walking and the views north the 'back' of the Glen Sheil south ridge of seven or so Munro's makes for a wonderful viewing. It was a pity that the cloud cover was quite low because on a clear day I think the views here would be pretty extensive.

 

The descent off Spidean was a good grassy stroll and as things hadn't been too wet it was actually quite enjoyable, not to steep and a bit of give in the ground. We headed for LochFearna and by skirting round the flank or small spur to the north west of the loch we were able to head into Coire Meal where we found yet another good stalkers path that conveniently took us to the road, the last bit through a patch of quite vigorous rhododendron.  Iain recalled that the big hydro scheme here had flooded much of the lower glen and covered the original 'bighouse' to which the rhododendrons and some large trees owed their presence.

 

Great Spotted Woodpecker

I heard them before I saw them.  Chicks being fed sending up a super racket when the parents arrived.

It was interesting to watch the parents flying in.  They would land in a nearby tree and then with a series of jumps, scurries and short flights gradually home in on their tree and skilfully work their way up or down the trunk to their nesting hole.

 

I'd imagine in a few days the youngsters will be out of the nest but for now (May 25) it is a lovely thing to see and hear on an evening walk.

 

Spring Garden

A very long winter and now a poor spring, but at last the bulbs are out and the garden is taking shape. We have a variety of tulips, but with them coming on so late we now have the dilemma of a crammed greenhouse with several dozen plants ready to go into tubs and pots that are currently occupied by bulbs.

 

Playing with the panorama facility on the camera, maybe best not to have done this whilst pointing the camera towards the sun !

The cherry tree hasn't been  his late coming into blossom before.

Mount Keen

Although not lauded as one of the great Munros there is still a lot to enjoy about Mount Keen, Scotland's most easterly Munro.  The views for one thing are pretty impressive, Lochnagar nearby, the Cairngorms stretching out on the horizon and over to the east a glimpse of Aberdeen and ships out at sea. I tried to capture this using the panorama setting on the camera but suspect I need a bit more practice !

We approached via Glen Esk which is a lovely mix of farmland and ancient woodlands. On the way up to the carpark we saw a cuckoo and a woodcock and the sound of woodland birds was all around.  Not far from the head of the glen a Redpoll whizzed into view.

The walk is fairly straightforward. A mixture of estate landrover tracks and nearer the top some well crafted granite style steps.  I suspect if it was raining it would be a little bit exposed, the first part of the walk is over moorlands and then after following the Ladder Burn for some way you emerge onto wide expanses of upland moor before reaching the rocky top. So a good walk on a sunny day but perhaps a bit open for a windy, wet outing.

On the way back to the car we had a good view of a ring ouzel, glimpsed a herd of red deer on a horizon, and enjoyed a visit to the Queen's Well, which was built to commemorate a visit by Queen Victoria over 100 years ago. Visually Balmoral Estate isn't too far from the summit of Mount Keen and the network of paths includes one that heads for Braemar.

Not a dramatic Munro but the mixture of habitats makes for a good walking/wildlife outing.

Down by the river

A week off and a new camera in my pocket - so what better to do than to take early morning strolls by the banks of the River Tay and capture the spring atmosphere.

The birds are a lot nosier now and there are always ducks on the river and sandpipers on the banks. Flowers are bursting through and the trees which only a day or two ago looked quite bare have suddenly sprung into life .. with a burst of dazzling clean green.

Heading off at six lets me capture some of the morning sun, although in truth at this time of year you could leave the house an hour ealier and probably get even better light. Nevertheless when I return home the sun is still throwing a lovely morning angle on everything. Usually I come back to find our two cats fast asleep and they are good subjects to try the macro facility of the camera out on.

May - Spring comes to Little Glenshee

A very late spring this year.  We had snowdrops out for well over a month, and at one point I think we all despaired of spring ever coming, a state of suspended animation seemed to have descended. Now the temperatures are finally rising and Sunday May 4th seemed a good opportunity to dust down the mountain bike and head for Little Glenshee.

On the way up the hedges were a patchy green but beneath the Cedendines were in flower. Despite cycling to work everyday I found the strong winds a challenge and so it was over two hours to do a ride that normally takes just 1.45. 

Still, lots of good wildlife; yellowhammers, curlews, lapwings, hares, common gulls then red squirrel. Some trees in leaf but others looking distinctly wintry. The roe deer are around but skulking in the bushes and forest edges so not easy to see with so much brown colour still around.

 

I'm riding a Specialised mountain bike at the moment and I've got mixed feelings about it.  It doesn't look particularly good, the black and white colour scheme makes is resemble an Everton Mint, but the comfort is okay and the with the big tyres it does allow for good off road cycling.  I've fitted by trusty old Brookes leather saddle which I have had since the 1980s when I used to enjoy cycling touring and had the saddle on my old Peugeot and then a later Orbit. Still for all the miles I do this bike is just fine. 

February walk in Glen Quioch

February they say is the cruellest month.   This however was a benign day.  A hint of warmth in the sunshine, lovely crisp snow to walk on. That  said we couldn't have ventured much further what with numerous road closures and less stable snow on many Munros. 

A great outing for mountian hares and red grouse and one red kite on the way back down.  On the top a whipping wind meant we didn't linger but the views were excellent.

 

 

Austria ... Mini adventure 2009

Driving to Austria from Scotland by mini ...  a great holiday and a mini adventure in every sense of the phrase.

Our destination was Inner Alpbach in the Tyrol. It was a bit of shock to arrive - in early July - to find our first twelve hours giving hot sunshine and then snow !  But fortunately this was short-lived and that morning was the only poor weather experience we had, and I'm getting ahead of myself.

The journey had begun with the Scotland to Zeebrugge ferry and having landed at 9.00am we zoomed off through Holland and Belgium into Germany.  We hadn't booked anything so stumbling upon the lovely town at Wurzburg at the end of a long hard day was the ideal start. With a lovely old bridge, beautiful spires, the river Main and sleek trams this old university town is a great spot to relax.

From Wurzburg it was on through Garmisch and into Austria by Bavaria. Wurzburg is in northern Bavaria and the contrast with the south of this huge area is quite marked.  By the time we emerged into Alpabach were were in the Alps, and the snaking drive up the valley was a good full stop to the day's driving.

Our first morning in Alpbach was bizarre. The temperature had plummeted overnight to 6 degrees and it had snowed. Thankfully the day improved rapidly and afternoon brought clear blue skies and soaring temperatures, this was much more like it. An early morning walk on quiet zig-zagging mountain roads became a favourite and acted as the perfect pre-breakfast exercise.

There are heaps of great drives near to Alpbach. The one that I would say is a 'must not miss' experience is the Grossglockner.  It is a private road in that you have to pay a fee, but I wouldn't hesitate to pay the small cost.  Firstly the scenery is breathtaking, classic Alpine mountain views, second the wildlife is great too and finally the road is stunning.  It is a wide road, easy to drive but with enough hair-pin bends to make for a real experience.  If you do go I'd suggest you visit the lovely Natural History museum where you gain a real insight into the animals and  plants that surround you.  As well as a superb inside museum experience there is a marked flora walk outside the museum.  

     From here we headed up to the top of the Grossglockner where the views are if anything even better. The Swarovski Visitor Centre isn't far from here and I'm glad to popped in.  You can see the huge glacier (although as the displays make clear nowhere near as big as it once was) and it was near here that we spotted our first Marmots. It's a great day out and if like us you call into St Johann   If you are thinking about visiting the Grossglockner than here is the link to the website (in English) http://www.grossglockner.at/en/

It wouldn't be Austria if there wasn't a reference to cable cars.  And the cable cars make for good high level walking, no matter how late in the day you elect to start. Kitzbuhel is one of the great ski centres in Europe and was arguably one of the first. It's a lovely place to visit in the summer and the pastel shades of the buildings give it a really calming influence.

North of Alpbach, to the north of the River Inn is another great drive and one that you can easily combine a walk with. 

Inner Alpbach is a classic Tyrolean village. In the winter it is a ski centre but a fairly small one with not too many big hotels. In the summer it is transformed into a walker's paradise and the many tracks and trails make for great days out.  Butterflies, bees and a range of upland birds make for a good wildlife experience.